On July 4th Ten Arran Belles travelled to the Outer Hebrides to cycle from Castlebay, Barra to Stornoway, Lewis staying in Hostels, Bunkhouses and even a Tractor Shed along the way. On a beautiful, calm morning the 7 hour ferry trip from Oban to Barra, calling in at Coll and Tiree, passed very quickly. A quick 8 mile cycle through Barra took us to our next ferry onto Eriskay then South Uist for our first night stop. On Eriskay we detoured to the bar’ SS Politician’ of Whisky Galore fame where we were shown a bottle of whisky from the sunken ship. The next day we headed North through the Uists and Benbecula stopping at the birthplace monument of Flora MacDonald, a bleak remote spot but so full of atmosphere. With rain arriving it was with relief we reached ‘The Tractor Shed”, North Uist our second night’s accommodation to be welcomed by our host, the very laid back Duncan. The old tractor shed has been converted into kitchen/living room/bunkroom with other turf covered huts outside, very cosy, very comfortable but very different. After drying off, nice dinner and a good nights sleep the Belles rose to a lovely day to continue their journey to Tarbert, South Harris via the Berneray/Leverburgh ferry. Turning west on Harris we were treated to the stunning beaches of Scarasta, Seilebost and Luskentyre overlooking Taransay. Now we were thankful for the tailwind that we had enjoyed since the start as the route became more hilly with a lunar like landscape. After another hostel overnight at the brilliant Backpackers in Tarbert rain had returned for our last day but undeterred the Belles set out to tackle the Harris Hills between North Harris and the Isle of Lewis. Cross winds blew Sue and Fiona D. across the road so with regret we cancelled the planned detour to the Callinish Standing Stones . We passed the monument commemorating Bonnie Prince Charlie travelling through in 1745 finally arriving ‘a bit drookit’ in Stornoway. This was a first cycle tour for most of the Arran Belles, full of doubts and concerns about their fitness but they coped with determination and motivation surprising themselves with their ability. Well deserved medals were presented to Isla Murchie, Sue Archer, Fiona Leslie, Fiona Douglas, Fiona Carswell, Toni MacKenzie, Carol Vella Boyle, Linda Johnston, Jillian Plenderleith, Wee Flo and Janice Small who all agreed the Outer Hebrides had been a truly wonderful experience, a place of isolation, haunting beauty, antiquities, dazzling beaches, turquoise seas, sea lochs and dramatic hills. A place to return to.
Saturday 29 July 2017
Sunday 9 July 2017
July 8th : The Last Dinner, Cafe Bar, Royal Hotel, Stornoway.
Footnote:
I would just like to mention what a fantastic group of ladies tackled the Outer Hebrides. For most it was there first touring experience, cycling every day for longer mileage. Some were anxious, unsure what to expect, would they be fit enough or hold everyone back. What about the Outer Hebridean weather ? Each and everyone was magnificent, I felt quite emotional and proud looking round the table at ladies who had never tackled anything like this before, who had the courage to put aside their misgivings and say 'yes'. The weather was mixed, thankfully always with a tailwind but each day the ladies started cycling without a grumble (?) Special mention must go to Linda, Jillian and Flo in Cilla2 who were such a reassuring presence and fed us when the going got tough. Thank you ladies. Will the Belles ride away again, I'd like to think so !!!
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| Fiona D., Toni, Sue, Fiona C., Isla |
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| Fiona L. |
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| Carol |
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| Fiona D |
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| Toni |
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| Sue |
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| Isla |
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| Jillian and Linda |
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| Janice |
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| Outer Hebrides Medal |
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| Flo |
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| Outer Hebrides Belles |
Saturday 8 July 2017
Mair Photos Saturday, 8th July
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| Sue Above Tarbert |
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| Leaving Tarbert |
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| Ever Smiling Carol |
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| A Photo of Isla Taking a Photo |
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| Puncture Plenderleith !!! |
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| The Charming Artist, Debbie |
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| Harris |
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| Harris....Isla |
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| Can We Do It ? |
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| Squeeze In !!! |
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| A Record....9 Belles in a Phonebox !!! |
July 8th: Tarbert to Stornoway: 37.6 miles, 2542.7 ft Wet with Tail and Cross Winds.
What a brilliant Hostel the Backpackers is, in Tarbert. Again we were in 2 x 4 rooms on the top floor. Very cosy with plenty of room, slept like a log. Well stocked free kitchen for general use. After a hearty breakfast the Belles were on the road by 9.50am. This morning's problems: Sue and Fiona L's bikes had been making strange noises so after a general check and lube they were good to go, the bikes that is not Sue and Fiona L. Fiona D's saddle bag/rack for some unknown reason just wouldn't attach to the bikes seat post, put it in Cilla 2. Linda/Jillian/Flo picked up our bags, poor souls they had spent the night in a car park. Toni decided she had had enough and with hills looming elected to help Linda/Jillian/Flo in Cilla 2. Unfortunately after yesterday's lovely day the rain was back on so it was decided not to detour to Callinish standing stones but head straight for Stornoway. Immediately we tackled a very steep hill but thank goodness for a fantastic, strong tailwind . The Belles coped well, seasoned cyclists now, going at their own pace to the top. The road wound round a glen and suddenly we experienced strong crosswinds blowing us out into the middle of the road, so hard to hold course. Both Fiona D and Sue couldn't fight it anymore and found themselves pushed across the road and onto the opposite verge. Very frightening, but fortunately no passing cars. Todays, scenery quoting Sue was 'wild, rugged and remote' but ' brooding, unforgiving, challenging, dramatic' to quote Carol, Toni, and Isla. Why don't we come back in the summer, `I hear the cry !!! Suddenly up ahead the girls had stopped, dreaded feeling, a mechanical, but no just a puncture from guess who ??? Puncture Plenderleith !!!. As Cilla 2 was just down the road Jillian blew up her tyre and pressed on. Linda now cycled. Next crisis, our lunch stop, at Balallan was closed, we could use the toilets in the village hall. !!!! Linda and I discussed menu's in Cilla 2 but no, good news there was another craft tearoom further on. Good stuff or so I thought !! The tearoom could only seat four but Debbie was very welcoming producing seats for most. She quickly made us teas, coffees, scones, muffins and flapjack. Tiny little craft shop showing Debbie's paintings, very talented. Wonderful. And the rain became heavier and the wind ( Tail ) stronger so it was reluctantly we continued our journey, heats down , get it done. The traffic became heavier with a lot of spray but apart from that it was a easy run to Laxdale Campsite where again we were in 2 X 4 bunkhouses. More of a spiracle tonight with showers/toilets outside requiring keys. Another shower crisis: when I was showering Carol moved the bikes across the door of my shower, another cry for help, help, fortunately just by chance Fiona L was passing and I was released. Now showered, teaed and coffeed we are sitting in a warm lounge watching Wimbledon. Our last dinner tonight in Stornoway, I will miss these gals. More to follow !
Friday 7 July 2017
Some Photos from The Last Two Days
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| Tractor Shed |
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| Berneray Belles |
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| Taransay |
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| Outer Hebrides Belles |
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| Scarista Beach |
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| Nonsense |
Some Photos from the Last Two Days
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| Leaving Polochar Inn |
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| Flora Macdonalds Birthplace |
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| Thatched Cottage |
Friday, 7th July, Piable, North Uist to Tarbert, North Harris.... 42.1miles 2073 ft
We spent a cosy, comfortable night in our 'hut' at the Tractor Shed. Fiona C., Fiona D., Isla and I in a family hut and Fiona L., Toni, Carol and Sue in the luxury of the Bunkroom in the main building. Linda and Jillian had a hook up for Cilla 2. All happy, a bargain at £16.25 per night. The first crisis occurred when Toni locked herself in the shower room, we heard her plaintiff cry for help and summoned our host, Duncan. Duncan who is the most laid back person you could possibly meet produced a 10 pence piece, fiddled with the lock and a relieved Toni was released. The same thing happened to Isla, we were all waiting on her, then faintly in the distance we heard 'Help, help' . this time we knew what to do and a happy Isla emerged. Linda/Jillian had provided a delicious breakfast box full of goodies - porridge, yoghurt, juices, cereal, bread and so on- so after breakfast we were ready to roll. A quick photo call beside Duncan's peat stack and we were off. Weather was dry with a cross wind changing to tail wind, perfect. We turned west hugging the coast of North Uist, surrounded by small lochs and machair, the terrain was undulating but the more hilly South Harris awaited. All the islands are different offering their own charm. We arrived in Berneray in good time to catch the 1.30pm to Leverburgh, South Harris. The plan was to have lunch in Cilla 2 on the ferry, but this was not to be so we waited till landing in Leverburgh. Linda and Jillian provided a delicious lunch of egg sandwiches, cheese sandwiches, cheese and biscuits (curtisy of Fiona L., ) and birthday cake. It was with some reluctance that we staggered out of Cilla 2 and resumed our journey. However it was to prove very rewarding, we travelled the west route and were treated to stunning views of the famous beaches of Scarista and Luskentyre. The island of Taransay nestled in the distance. The road was becoming quite hilly now but we knew our destination of Tarbert wasn't far away so struggled on. It was with some relief that we arrived at The Backpackers Hostel. More brilliant accommodation for just £20 per night, we have 2 x 4 rooms with breakfast provided. Linda/Jillian and wee Flo are in a car park just up the road. No facilities here for Cilla 2. We were running a bit late so after some hasty showers or no showers we appeared at the Harris Hotel for dinner. Another fab dinner, with the usual weather and history reports. Linda reported that Kim's operation has been a success and she is back home on Arran with the prognosis of excellent recovery. Go Kim go !!! Group photos were taken wearing our OH tops, how difficult is it to take a photo of 10 Belles !!! I was losing the will to live, what a crew !! Now back in the Hostel we are all settled fro the night. Tomorrow is our last day, looking dry in the morning with rain in the afternoon, tailwind, no problem to the hardy Arran Belles. The trip has been wonderful, the Outer Hebrides living up to expectations. Stornoway here we come !!!
Thursday, 6th July. South Uist to North Uist 44 miles 950 ft
THURSDAY, 6TH JULY 10.22PM DELAYED POST DUE TO NO WIFI
I don’t know about the other Belles but I certainly had a good nights sleep in Polochur Inn. We all met at 8.30am for an excellent breakfast looking out at a dry and, joy of joys, a strong south wind.
Toni had lost her Bike Computer but fortunately it turned up, Fiona L discovered her saddle bag had been attached incorrectly but at 10.00am we all rolled out to cycle the Long Island, South Uist to North Uist. Linda was cycling whilst Jillian went ahead in Cilla 2. The first thing to catch our eye was a sign pointing to the Birthplace of Flora MacDonald, we detoured to a Monument/Plaque giving a little history of the Scottish Heroine, fascinating. Next stop, was the Kildonan Museum where we had a short break for a cup of tea/coffee. We had barely covered 10 miles but were thoroughly enjoying ourselves, being blown along but cyclists going south had heads down, battling against the wind. The terrain was mostly flat with a few undulating hills, a bleak landscape with randomly scattered houses, I felt as though I was on top of the world. The girls were making good time going at their own pace. In their colourful jackets they looked like a string of beads strung out on the winding road. There appears no cultivation just the occasional flock of sheep and herd of cows. Much wildlife of which I confess I am quite ignorant. Beautifully preserved thatched cottages but also many derelict houses. Eventually we reached the Hebridean Jewellery Workshop/Tearoom where we stopped for lunch. Perfect timing because as we pulled in the rain came on and that was it on for the day. After a delicious lunch we reluctantly set off to cycle the last 22 miles to our accommodation. There was no stopping now and with a tailwind we flew up the road. We crossed many causeways making Berneray just after 3.00pm. Wet and weary Belles pulled into our accommodation, the Tractor Shed, Paible just before 4.00pm. It is certainly ‘different’, turf covered pods in a row, the look of amazement on the Belles faces said it all. But after a cup of tea and hot shower every one cheered up. Before dinner we gathered in Cilla 2 to belatedly celebrate Toni’s birthday, a birthday cake, candles and Prosseco were produced much to Toni’s astonishment then she was presented with card and Auchrannie Voucher from the Belles. To say she was surprised is an understatement. Donald, the taxi driver arrived to ferry us, in three trips, 5 miles down the road to the Westford Inn for dinner. He lives close to the Inn but hasn’t been for a meal, said the portions were too big. A bit of a charactor. Another great meal in great company discussing the events of the day. Jillian gave us a weather report, back to short wearing weather and Carol talked of places of interest. A day of two halves but both very enjoyable, what’s not to like…on a bike, good company, flattish road, tailwind…..just follow the road, well done the Arran Belles.
Wednesday 5 July 2017
Day 2: Weds 5th July, Oban to South Uist
We woke early this morning to a perfect sunny, calm day. We left the brilliant Backpackers Hostel, Oban at 6.15am to hand our bags over to Linda/Jillian in their camper van at Oban Pier. Boarding was 6.45am on the Clansman ferry, departure at 7.15am. Our first port of call was the Island of Coll, then Tiree arriving Barra 2.15pm, over 7 hours journey, aaahhhh. We breakfasted and lunched on board. The scenery was absolutely stunning, cruising through the Sound of Mull, we spotted otters, porpoises and basking sharks. The islands were very flat, without trees, houses randomly scattered like flowers, no protection whatsoever from the elements. Folk Musicians came on board at Tiree and played, in the bar, all the way to Barra, what a welcome. Wonderful. The 7 hours seemed to fly by and before we knew it we were landing at Barra to the sound of bagpipes. We had an 1.5 hours to catch our next ferry to Eriskay, thankfully for just 45mins. The Belles were desperate to get on the bikes and set off at a rate of knots over the undulating route ( 9.5 miles) only detouring to view the Beach Airport in North Barra. The Eriskay ferry left on time and again we were spoilt with fantastic views. I got chatting to a guy, Charlie from Surrey who had spent the last 6 weeks travelling through England, Wales and now Scotland, he too was travelling/camping through the OH then continuing in mainland Scotland for the next month. Now on Eriskay we were faced with some very sharp, steep hills. We detoured to The Politician Bar where we were shown the whisky, bottle and machete from the shipwrecked SS Politician of Whisky Galore fame. Of course we had to have a drink. Over a causeway now to South Uist to our accommodation, the Polochur Inn, Linda/Jillian in camper van Cilla 2 in a nearby campsite. We all met up for a fun dinner in the Inn, Jillian reporting on the weather for tomorrow and Carol relating history and points of interest that we will pass. Jillian is also trying to teach us a Gaelic word each day without much success. We have been allocated Gaelic names.. I am Seonaid for Janice, Isla is Ile, Linda is Mali, Fiona C is Sheena, Fiona L is Marie ( the other five in tomorrow's post ).. much hilarity. An absolute brilliant first day in the Outer Hebrides, the weather, scenery, company, people... couldn't have been better. A welcome later start tomorrow, the Belles roll out at 10.00am, watch this space.
Photos from Day 2, Weds 5th July, Oban to South Uist
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| Carol, Fiona l, Toni, Janice |
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| Coll |
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| Musician Playing on Clansman Ferry |
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| Barra |
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| Fina C., Isla,Toni,Fiona L., Sue, Carol, Jillian, Fiona C. |
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| Whisky and Cleaver From SS Politician |
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| Ferry at Eriskay |
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